So after all the fuss, noise, cost, sweat, and general unpleasantness, is it worth it just for a visit to Mumtaz’s famous tomb? Or can you enjoy the Taj Mahal just as well in pictures?
I’ve thought a lot about this in the days since I stopped hacking up lungfulls of Agra dust. The temptation is strong to give an unqualified yes, to say it was absolutely worth the crucible I just endured. Certainly, my first reaction upon seeing the Taj was pure wonder. My second reaction was, “holy shit, that’s a lot of people,” followed by, “why is it so hazy?,” and finally, “I’m breathing that.” The thing is, once you’re inside the crowds are very orderly. There’s no pushing and shoving, no impatience. It’s almost like, for once in India, everyone is exactly where they need to be and doesn’t feel like they have to bowl you over.
“You know Shah Jahan, life and youth, wealth and glory, they all drift away in the current of time. You strove therefore, to perpetuate only the sorrow of your heart. Let the splendor of diamond, pearl and ruby vanish. Only let this one teardrop, this Taj Mahal, glisten spotlessly bright on the cheek of time, forever and ever.” -Rabindranath Tagore
Taj Mahal Gardens and Main Gate.
They give you cute little shoe covers when you buy your ticket, or you can check your shoes once you’re inside. I opted for the shoe covers. This is another thing of wonder about the Taj. You can feel it. You can touch it, walk on it, interact with it. It’s almost like a living thing. I explored the tomb itself first, taking in every angle on the central plinth. I went inside to see the darkened splendor of the tomb itself. It felt strangely small and intimate when the outside is so grand and overpowering.
I then went first to the mosque which lies west of the Taj, and then its twin to the east. At that time of the morning, the view from the east was amazing. I stood in as many different places throughout the grounds as I could and from each one I saw a completely new, completely different, completely perfect view.
“I am the tear drop of a grieving lover
A magnificent declaration of his ardor
A marble symphony by maestro carvers
A magnum opus, an aria by Wagner to savor”……
That’s the thing that pictures will never show; how the Taj Mahal changes and warms and opens and softens and reinvents itself with each tilt of your head or trick of the light. You can’t see that right away, when you’re getting over the shock of the crowds. You have to wait, spend time, be patient. But if you’re able to do that, there’s no question anymore.
Was it worth it? Absolutely.
Grasshopper Alley 